Viking river cruise: vibrant cities, quaint towns and stunning views during a scenic sail along elegant Elbe

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‘Cheers!’, I said to my wife as we nestled into the cushions of a comfortable booth sofa on-board beautiful Beyla, one of Viking’s smaller, but more intimate river ships.

As we chinked glasses the tiredness was kicking in, which was only to be expected after a full weekend exploring the cultural delights of Prague, and we were ready for a little more relaxation as the quaint towns and winding stretches of the glistening River Elbe awaited our presence.

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I’d always been keen to visit the Czech capital, which is why Viking's 10-day ‘Elegant Elbe’ package was so appealing, with two ‘big city’ hotel breaks either side of a sedate five-night voyage starting in nearby Decin, sailing into the eastern side of Germany and finishing in the Saxony town of Wittenberg.

Our final destination reached by coach would be bustling Berlin to see the city’s striking landmarks, but not before we had the chance to recharge the batteries by enjoying the peace and tranquility of a longship sail along one of Europe’s most unspoiled rivers.

Viking Longship Beyla near the Albrechtsburg Castle along the Elbe River in Meissen, Germany. Image: Viking CruisesViking Longship Beyla near the Albrechtsburg Castle along the Elbe River in Meissen, Germany. Image: Viking Cruises
Viking Longship Beyla near the Albrechtsburg Castle along the Elbe River in Meissen, Germany. Image: Viking Cruises

After a warm welcome from Beyla’s friendly hotel manager Janos, I immediately fell in love with our temporary home, which although only big enough to hold up to 98 passengers, still managed to feel remarkably spacious thanks to its sleek and stylish Nordic design.

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Built in 2015 and boasting all the comfort and elegance of other Viking ships, Beyla is purpose-built for the Elbe thanks to its customised hulls and engines specifically designed to navigate the river’s renowned shallow waters.

Located on the upper deck, our 180 sq ft veranda stateroom would allow us to enjoy the romantic scenery whenever we pleased, with a single sliding of the floor-to-ceiling glass doors the only effort needed to be exposed to the stunning views.

Other stateroom features included a queen-size bed with luxury linens, free Wi-Fi, a flat-screen interactive TV with onboard account and a private bathroom with glass-enclosed shower and anti-fog mirror, perfect for applying the final touches of the all-important pre-dinner spruce-up.

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Our veranda stateroom would allow us to enjoy the romantic scenery whenever we pleased. Image: Viking CruisesOur veranda stateroom would allow us to enjoy the romantic scenery whenever we pleased. Image: Viking Cruises
Our veranda stateroom would allow us to enjoy the romantic scenery whenever we pleased. Image: Viking Cruises

Speaking of dinner, the food on Viking is of the highest quality, and after a welcome gathering in the lounge to meet Captain Miroslav and his crew, Executive Chef Galin appeared to announce his gastronomical recommendations from his first-night menu. For this particular evening there’d be beef tartare, a seared sea bass fillet and a sumptuous herb-crusted pork tenderloin, rounded off with a delicious New York cheesecake.

The bar was set high, with three-course feasts featuring heavily for the rest of the voyage, but what I love about Viking is that although offering a staple menu of ‘every day’ favourites, there are always a selection of themed dishes to choose from relating to the areas sailed through.

Intrigued and eager to sample the regional cuisine, I frequently dabbled in German specialties such as Wurzfleisch (cheese and pork casserole), Reibekuchen (potato rosti, zucchini spaghetti and sour cream), Saxonian Barley Soup and Almond Cake. Of course, there were many other highlights, including the wonderful Roast Chateaubriand Bearnaise and decadently rich chocolate fondant, along with several tasty soups and pasta dishes we consumed for lunch.

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So off we set, and with Beyla in full flow, we were on our way to our first port of call, cruising across the Czech/German border along the Saxon wine route into Bad Schandau, one of the oldest spa resorts in the Saxon Switzerland region.

View of the winding River Elbe from the Bastei lookout point.View of the winding River Elbe from the Bastei lookout point.
View of the winding River Elbe from the Bastei lookout point.

We wouldn’t be staying overnight, but long enough to visit the towering rocks of the Bastei, one of Germany’s natural wonders, where we marvelled at the breathtaking scenery, looking down at the graceful path of the Elbe from the most dramatic of lookouts.

Luckily, an afternoon cast-off meant we were able to see the Bastei again, this time from the river with Aperol Spritz in hand courtesy of bar chef Milos, who brought our favourite lunchtime tipple up to the spacious sundeck while we admired the stunning panoramic views.

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Next stop Dresden, widely-known as the ‘Florence of the Elbe’ and awash in artistic treasures and baroque splendour, including the remarkable Zwinger Palace which was the perfect backdrop for our first paid-for excursion, an intimate classical concert performed by the talented Dresden Residence Orchestra.

It was the perfect end to an evening that started with a hearty German-themed dinner featuring the likes of bratwurst, schnitzel and sauerkraut, with several crew members joining in the fun by donning lederhosen and dirndl outfits.

Sailing along the Elbe River in the Saxon Switzerland region of Germany. Image: White Rain ProductionsSailing along the Elbe River in the Saxon Switzerland region of Germany. Image: White Rain Productions
Sailing along the Elbe River in the Saxon Switzerland region of Germany. Image: White Rain Productions

There was chance to further explore Dresden on one of Viking's many ‘included’ tours, which featured a panoramic drive to the beautiful Neustadt district and a visit to the ‘Grunes Gewolbe’, the Green Vault museum which many claim houses the largest collection of treasures in the world.

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Onto Meissen, a town renowned for its porcelain, this time opting to take time out to explore the area ourselves before returning to witness a live cooking demonstration from Chef Galin who showed us how to make Quarkkeulchen, a sweet Saxon pancake dish using... mashed potatoes!

Sightseeing can be tiring and returning to our stateroom each evening for an after-dinner slumber would have been the easy option, but why do that when there are numerous beers, wines and cocktails to be consumed with the soothing tones of resident pianist Robert tinkling the ivories in the background?

Even more so if you've added Viking’s Silver Spirits beverages package, which allows you to enjoy unlimited drinks anytime during the voyage, costing around £20 per person per night, which is great value.

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For two nights we were treated to some live on-board entertainment thanks to a selection of classical tunes performed by The Allegria Ensemble, along with a musical presentation of ‘Renaissance Times’, which took a comical look into the period’s fashion, food and dance styles.

The final part of our cruise took us via Torgau to Wittenberg, where we strolled in the footsteps of Martin Luther, founder of the Protestant Reformation, taking a look inside the famous All Saints’ Church in which he is entombed.

The ship's observation lounge and bar. Image: Viking CruisesThe ship's observation lounge and bar. Image: Viking Cruises
The ship's observation lounge and bar. Image: Viking Cruises

Before waving goodbye to Beyla and her wonderful crew, one last on-board breakfast fuelled us up nicely for the coach journey to Berlin, with smiling Program Director Titiana, who had been a constant source of help, knowledge and efficiency throughout our voyage, remaining with us.

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After a short stop en-route in Potsdam, where the three world ‘superpowers’ met in 1945 to negotiate terms for the end of the Second World War, we arrived in the capital to spend a couple more days viewing the city’s historic landmarks including remnants of the Berlin Wall, Checkpoint Charlie, Brandenburg Gate, the Reichstag and Holocaust Memorial.

Destination-wise this Viking experience had been an education both historically and architecturally, but one that also brought happiness, relaxation and some of Europe's most stunning scenery, along with the finest food and drink offerings on water. What more could anyone want?

TRAVEL FACTS - ELEGANT ELBE

Itinerary: 10 days/nine nights with stops in Prague, Saxon Switzerland, Dresden, Meissen, Wittenberg and Berlin, and seven guided tours included.

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Includes: Return flights from select UK airports, two nights in a premium hotel in Prague, two nights in a premium hotel in Berlin and five nights in a standard stateroom, in-destination transfers, all on board meals including wine, beer and soft drinks with lunch and dinner (plus no corkage fee), included excursion in each port of call, Wi-Fi, gratuities, evening entertainment and enrichment talks.

Prices start from £3,195 per person for a 5th-14th April 2025 sailing, based on current availability. Price reflective of current offer - save £1,000 per person on 2025 & 2026 European river voyages if booked by 30 June 2024.

To make a booking contact 0800 319 66 60 or visit the Viking website.

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