SOMETIMES you find a Sunday lunch for which it is worth going that extra mile.

Last week, we headed down the A1 to Stannington on the recommendation of friends.

After negotiating the new road layout, we drove into the village and found the Ridley Arms, a veritable Tardis of a pub, with endless rooms and alcoves, each with tables for dining.

We arrived for a late Sunday lunch – almost an early tea. It was 2.30pm and we fully expected the lunch rush to be over, but were surprised to find the large car park packed and the pub equally bursting at its 18th-century beams.

There was not a table to be had. We put in our bid for a berth with the restaurant manager and settled down with a pint of guest ale, Northumberland Brewery's Pit Pony, a pint of Guinness and two lemonades (£8.25 for the round) and waited to be summoned.

It seemed to be fairly chaotic with an undercurrent of calm, staff buzzing around in apparent order.

A table became available before our glasses had reached half-full, not too painful a wait even for starving children.

They were suitably entertained by other young families out for a Sunday treat, many dressed in their finest. Children were obviously made most welcome, with high chairs aplenty scattered about.

The clamour of conversation was so loud that the background music was completely lost – a great atmosphere.

The Ridley Arms is part of the Sir John Fitzgerald group, which boasts Café Royal in Newcastle, Twin Farms at Kenton Bankfoot, Shiremoor House Farm at North Shields and Fitzgeralds in Sunderland, Whitley Bay and Newcastle, among others.

It was a homely pub with real fires (properly guarded) at every turn and a traditional ambience without the clutter of many other similar venues.

Nor was there anything tired and dated about it – a green tartan carpet was a refreshing change from the customary red Paisley.

The Sunday menu prices would have settled neatly at the high end of the average category, although there were no special deals for two or three courses.

Starters numbered six and were unexpectedly varied: soup of the day (£3.95), chicken, bacon and avocado salad (£4.95), Caesar salad with crispy pancetta (£4.35), creamy wild mushroom, lemon and parsley pasta (£4.50), or peppered goat's cheese and Mediterranean vegetable pizziola (£4.50).

Tempting though they were, we went straight for the jugular and hit the main courses. The roasts of the day were topside of beef, herb chicken breast, loin of pork and leg of lamb, all served with a selection of fresh veg, roast and boiled potatoes and a home-made Yorkshire pudding and all priced at £8.25. Half-portions were available for youngsters at £4.25.

Alternatives included speciality North Sea haddock and chips with home-made tartar sauce and mushy peas (£8.95), roasted marmalade ham served with creamy mash (£7.95), red wine beef with creamy mashed potatoes (£8.35), Cumberland sausage, mash and crispy onions (£8.25) or scampi (£8.25). If there was a commitment to local produce, it was not highlighted on the menu, although the pub's website points out an emphasis on local produce where possible.

The children opted for the beef roast, while I had the chicken. My wife had heard good things about the fish and chips, which swayed her in that direction.

Our meals were worth a fairly lengthy wait – there was plenty to eat and it was well-cooked using fresh ingredients – a fine effort given the huge number of covers being served.

I had two chicken breasts coated in herbs and had no complaints apart from a dry, crispy Yorkshire pudding and my usual gripe about beef gravy with white meat.

My wife's fish and chips were indeed special. The haddock was almost-still-swimming fresh and encased in a light, golden batter.
Puddings were all £4.50 apart from a selection of locally-made ice-cream at £3.95. Surprisingly, only the ice cream came in a child's portion (£1.95).

So, on the board, were golden raisin and treacle pudding, mulled winter fruit and macaroon crumble, warm rice pudding, New York-style cheesecake, sticky toffee pudding, bread and butter pudding, profiteroles and deep custard and nutmeg tart.

My son followed in my footsteps and plumped for the sticky toffee pudding, complete with hot butterscotch sauce and ice cream. It was delicious – a chunky, moist sponge swimming deep in sauce.

My daughter had the small ice-cream and my wife skipped the desserts in favour of another pint of Guinness!

Our bill, including two rounds of drinks, came to just over £50. The food alone was £36.65, not extortionate to satisfy a family of four.
On the way out, via a visit to the spotless and stylish loos, we noticed the tables outside and could imagine diners spilling out into the fresh air on a busy summer's Sunday – idyllic!

STAR RATINGS (out of five)
Quality of food 3.5
Choice 3.5
Vegetarian choice 2.5
Value for money 3
Atmosphere 4.5
Service 4
Children catered for 4
Disabled access 3.5
Disabled toilet Yes
Overall experience 4
Verdict: You'll not be disappointed.

Contact details: The Ridley Arms, Stannington, Northumberland NE61 6EL. Tel: 01670 789216; website: www.sjf.co.uk