I LOVE Newton by the Sea. The tiny village enjoys some of the best views this spectacular county has to offer.

I remember the first time I hit the brow of the rise between High and Low Newton many years ago. My breath was taken away by a scene stretching across sandy beaches to the imposing ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle perched on the next mound along the coast.

I was so inspired I drew the scene and even enrolled at an art class to learn how to paint it!

On the left is the former Coastguard's cottage, now a holiday home, and there used to be a red telephone box on the right half-way down the hill, positioned in true Local Hero style. It was a strangely reassuring symbol of civilisation looking out to the often hostile sea. That view never fails to melt my heart every time I return.

High Newton sits to the north on the road down to the coast. There's not much there, but set back from the village green, sitting like the village matriarch, is the Joiners Arms, its bay windows offering an early glimpse of the pub's interior and perhaps more interestingly, how many people are inside enjoying the hospitality.

It did not look busy for a Saturday night but it was the first in March and the tourist season was just starting to crank up in preparation for the Easter onslaught.

The Joiners is split into two, a lounge area and pool room to the right and a bar, which excludes children, to the left. The lounge is not large so I could imagine it heaving in the summer.

It underwent a refurbishment in 2001 and is clean and functional, with very traditional dark beams and red patterned carpet.

The atmosphere, however, was lacking something – you could hear a pin drop and the hushed voices of those seated around the edges of the room only made you want to keep your volume down. It needed some music on this quiet night. A juke box in the pool room next door was just audible and did not do the trick.

A real fire was set with newspaper, kindling and coal – it cried out to be lit! If ever there was a need for proof of the phenomenon of spontaneous combustion, this was it. Perhaps we should have just asked for a match – we're far too polite!

We found the tables were very low and small – ideal for the children but we needed to spread out to the next table.

The menus looked well-prepared, interesting and catered for everyone (vegetarians read on!). They carried the request that diners' patience may be required while all food was cooked to order – a good sign that meals will be freshly prepared.

Although we decided to dive straight into the main courses, the starters were tempting and included home-made soup served with a freshly baked roll and butter (£2.45); Mexican re-fried beans and salsa topped with tortillas and melted cheese, then oven baked (£3.25); deep fried potato skins served with a choice of garlic mayonnaise or salsa dip (£2.95); crispy coated garlic mushrooms (£2.95); mussels in garlic and wine (£6.95, enough for two); salmon and herb fish cake (£2.95), among others. It would have been an inexpensive opener to the evening.

While all around us was the glorious smell and sizzling of strips of spicy chicken on a bed of mixed peppers and onions, the main ingredients of the popular fajitas (£8.45), I went for the Chinese-style chicken with rice (£7.25) and my wife fancied a steak – an eight-ounce sirloin steak, served with onion rings, mushrooms, salad garnish and chips (£9.85).

My meal consisted of meaty chunks of chicken breast with peppers, onions and cashew nuts stir-fried in hoisin and plum sauce in a dish with rice. The presentation left a lot to be desired and there was an imbalance between rice and sauce (not enough rice), but the food was tasty, rich, fresh and plentiful.

The steak was well-cooked and tender. We all agreed that the onion rings were among the best we have tasted! The food was decent and all quite reasonably priced.

Other dishes include Newton crab salad (£8.95), deep-fried Icelandic cod (£7.35), gammon steak (£7.95), chilli con carne (£7.25).

Vegetarians are well-served with four dishes: Curry, a chilli dish and Mexican re-fried beans, each £6.85, or fajitas at £7.95.

The children also had their own menu of meals costing just £2.95. They included a choice of cod bites, Northumbrian fishcakes, scampi, sausage or chicken fillet bites, all with chips and peas or beans.

Our two decided it was a chicken nuggets night and promptly devoured the four served up each. They were indeed proper chunks of chicken lightly battered.

We had planned to have sweets but were full from the main courses. For those with heartier appetites than ours there were two ice-cream-based desserts, dream delight sundaes (£2.65) and individual cups of Doddington's ice cream (£1.30) and two hot puddings – sticky toffee and syrup sponge (£2.85 each).

There was a special offer on wine – a bottle for £8.25 (normal price £9.50) with any two main courses, but as one of us was driving we ordered drinks at the bar. Our bill came to £31.70. A word of warning – the Joiners does not take credit cards, so arm yourselves with cash or a cheque book.

A trip to the loos revealed a clean, if dated, facility, two vases of red carnations adding a homely touch. But the toilets are inaccessible to wheelchair users.

STAR RATINGS (out of five)
Quality of food 3.5
Choice 3
Vegetarian choice 3.5
Value for money 3.5
Atmosphere 2
Service 3
Children catered for 3.5
Disabled access 2
Disabled toilet No
Overall experience 3
Verdict: Above average pub grub

Contact details: The Joiners Arms, High Newton by the Sea, Alnwick, Northumberland NE66 3EA. Tel: 01665 576645; website: www.joiners-arms.co.uk