THE Apple Inn takes the definition of a rural retreat to its limits.

Admittedly, it is not a million miles from the A1 and there is a 100-caravan site next door but it is not exactly on the tourist drag.

So you really have to intend to go there – you are unlikely to trip over it en passant.
It's a good base in the summer to explore the north Northumberland coast but will be returned to the locals (and there can't be many of them) in the winter.

But if you do make the journey you'll be met with a warm welcome from new licencees who are trying to build a reputation for good food.

The Apple Inn is part of the Duke's empire and in line with the likes of the Fishing Boat Inn at Boulmer, the Estates has made a pretty good job of renovating it.

The result is a cosy bar with a traditional feel and a light, conservatory restaurant – paradoxically, just the sort of place you'd feel snuggly during those cold winter months.
We were shown straight through into the restaurant when we asked for Sunday lunch. It was an airy room with a fussy, lively carpet and plain walls except for the side adjoining the bar which was exposed stone.

We unfortunately landed next to the loudest family in Northumberland with the noisiest, most mischievous bairns. No chance of a peaceful meal then, although the Apple Inn was in no way to blame despite their apologies. At least we knew they welcomed children!

I would have liked some background music to soften the blow but it was only intermittently playing back in the bar.

The menu was fascinating for a Sunday – plenty of imagination, with particular consideration given to vegetarians.

It was not exhaustive – just five starters, eight main courses and seven sweets – but just enough to satisfy most tastes. Before we even made our choices, it was a fair bet that each dish was freshly prepared and cooked to order.

So we decided to hit the starters: Cream of tomato soup, served with roll and best butter (£3.50); brie wedges, served with raspberry couli (£4.50); seabass with lime and ginger fishcake and tartare sauce (£4.50); potato wedges, served with garlic mayonnaise (£4.50); and chicken and onion brochettes (£4.50) – my wife's choice.

Hers was skewered pieces of smoky chicken, peppers and onion, complete with small and very fresh salad and chilli mayonnaise – a tasty appetiser with a delicious combination of flavours.

I went for the seabass fishcake, which was among the best I've had – a crispy coating gave way to a soft filling with lovely pieces of seabass. Another crunchy, colourful salad of peppers, red onions, rocket, tomatoes and cucumber topped a fine starter.

Three of the main courses carried warnings of a wait while they were freshly prepared: Wild rice, spinach and honey roast with ruby port, served with a crisp salad and crusty roll or chips and veg (£8.95) and mushroom, brie and cranberry Wellington (£8.95), both taking 20 minutes; and local pork , apple and ginger sausages, made exclusively for the Apple Inn and served with Yorkshire pudding (£7.95, 15 minutes).

Alternatively, there was roast silverside of beef (£7.95); steak and ale with Yorkshire pudding (£7.95); roast pork, with apple sauce and Yorkshire pudding (£7.95); home-made lasagne (£8.95); and braised lamb shank with mint gravy (£10.95).

No prizes for guessing which dish my wife's pin stuck in! She'll look like a lasagne one of these days!

She enjoyed the consistency, the chunky mince and creamy cheese sauce but said it lacked sufficient herbs and garlic for her liking.

I found the roast beef very palatable – it was tender, full of flavour and, I was told, locally-sourced.

Apart from two roast potatoes, which were subtly sweet, and an enormous Yorkshire pudding, I was served a side plate of mashed potato, crushed carrot and swede and cabbage – there was plenty of it but if I was being critical, which after all is my job, I would say there was a slight over-generosity with the salt with the vegetables or the gravy, which was otherwise meaty and real!
Desserts were all £4.50, except vanilla or chocolate ice cream, which was £3.50. The selection was lemon brulee, mango and coconut cheesecake, banoffee meringue roulade, Chantilly lime pie, jam sponge pudding or chocolate fudge cake.

We enjoyed the latter two but were disappointed that none of the desserts were home-made. Apparently, once the season gets into full swing, the in-house creations start to kick in. We decided to pop back at a later date – given the quality of the rest of the meal, the home-made sweets will be a treat.

Our lunch, complete with a pint and a half of Theakstons (no real ales on offer) and Guinness, set us back £42.40.

The children would have eaten from the same menu at half the price.
I was particularly impressed with the cleanliness of the toilets and the consideration made to wheelchair users – regular disabled customers travel for miles around.

The Apple Inn is worth a try but expect a wait between courses as the microwave oven is not overused in this kitchen. We appreciate a leisurely meal as we rarely get to see each other for any length of time otherwise!

STAR RATINGS (out of five)
Quality of food * * * *
Choice * * *
Vegetarian Choice * * * *
Value for money * * *
Atmosphere * * *
Service * * * *
Children catred for * * * *
Disabled access * * * * *
Disabled toilet YES
Overall experiance * * * *

VERDICT: Fine home-cooking.

The Apple Inn, Lucker. Tel: 0d1668 231450, email rbakerlowe@aol.com