WOW! What a transformation!

It can't have escaped the notice of many people driving into Alnwick from the south the workmen scurrying about The Plough in the past few months.

The work reached fever pitch last week, culminating in a grand opening on Saturday.

I was in a party of four booked for the first night and, having been inside just a fortnight previously, was astounded to see the change in décor and atmosphere.

Gone was the classically loud, heavily patterned pub carpet to be replaced by wooden flooring; gone the claustrophobic, dingy , dated look and instead a vibrant, youthful, modern, smart, open bar, a feeling of cleanliness and space.

Traditionally pubs were dark with curtained or stained-glass windows, secretive and, before the smoking ban was enforced, smelling of stale socks. But the new generation of hostelries are bright and stylish.

A central light oak bar dominates Blackmore's now; plain walls graced with elegant works of art and flickering, mock-candle lamps; browns, greys and deep reds; comfortable furniture; stylish bar stools. It's all a far cry from its previous incarnation.

Not another soul could have squeezed in on Saturday. It was going to be a huge test for the opening night.

Only the Christmas menu was available in the restaurant upstairs, but at £16 a head for a three course meal plus coffee, we weren't complaining.

We had each decided to choose something different from the menu, so that all but one of the dishes were covered.

My starter was delicious – wild boar, honey and mustard sausage with black pudding and a cranberry herb pesto – the combination of strong flavours with the subtlety of the honey and cranberry sweetness was a joy.

My companions had equally enjoyable experiences. The roasted Craster smoked salmon fillet (not thin slices) melted in the mouth and was complemented surprisingly well with mozzarella cheese. A tossed salad with baby spinach and garlic herb pesto completed the experience.

Home-made baked Jerusalem artichoke, bean and Red Duke of York potato soup went down well, but the favourite was corn fed chicken liver and wild mushroom paté with tossed salad, caramelised onion and pear confit, and crispy croutons. The paté was so light as to almost rise from the plate. Another fine combination of sweet and savoury

The only starter was had not tasted was a cocktail of melon, with grapefruit and strawberry sorbet.

On to the main courses and my baked sea bass on a bed of stir fry noodles, peppers and Thai sauce was wickedly hot. But the fish was so fresh and perfectly cooked that it acted as the calm amid the storm of spices.

The local lamb shank with roasted celeriac and Yukon gold mash, rosemary infused gravy was certainly the most impressive dish, with the large joint of meat dominating the plate.

The favourite Christmas meal, traditional turkey with trimmings, was well received and surprisingly filling despite appearing to be smaller than the other dishes. Then there was the tasty breast of pheasant stuffed with haggis, wrapped in bacon, served on roast onions with creamed whisky sauce.

The main courses were not piping hot, a criticism levelled more by my fellow diners, but we put it odwn to first-night hiccups.

We were served a dish of roast potatoes and two of mixed vegetables consisting of sprouts and roast carrot and parsnip.

We missed out on the vegetarian option - a strudel of roasted winter vegetables with Doddington cheese, and a red pepper and basil sauce.

The sweets were a fitting climax to a splendid meal. The accompanying home-made ice creams were an absolute delight.

My rich chocolate mousse with mint chocolate ice cream was indeed rich and chocolatey. The hightlight was the ice cream, which was awash with real, dark chocolate and had a subtle minty tinge.

The marinated oranges with cointreau ice cream was voted the best of the bunch. The freshest of oranges were used and again the ice cream was superb.

Christmas pudding with brandy sauce and creme brulee with vanilla pod ice cream were also given the thumbs up.

We did not try the meringue with lemon meringue ice cream. Our meals were neatly rounded off with coffees.

Throughout the service had been friendly but erratic, which was excusable given the hectic occasion. I would expect it to improve as days go by.

Our wine (a pleasant Australian Shiraz at £20.20 for the bottle anda Spanish Cava at £18) eventually arrived after the starters following some persuasion.

The wines range from £12.50 a bottle to £32 for a Californian Pinot Noir. And lurking at the foot of the list is a £120 bottle of French Champagne with a "complex nose of croissant".

Essentially, John Blackmore has brought city cuisine to the town and, with the Christmas menu, very much maintained town prices. It will be interesting to see wther he can keep such competitive prices once the a la carte menu starts in earnest in the new year (I have already booked a table). If he can, he will have customers clocking from all over the county.

STAR RATINGS (out of five)
Quality of food 4.5
Choice 4
Vegetarian choice 3
Value for money 4.5
Atmosphere 4
Service 3
Children catered for 4
(separate children's menu)
Disabled access 3
(downstairs only)
Disabled toilet No
Overall experience 4.5
Verdict: Splendid - and will get better.

Contact details: Blackmore's of Alnwick, Bondgate Without, Alnwick, NOrthumberland NE66 1PN. Tel: 01665 602395; email: info@blackmoresofalnwick.com; website: www.blackmoresofalnwick.com